Founding of a Nation: Tour of Philadelphia and Gettysburg

This time of year, Independence Day, always leaves me sentimental. Beyond the fireworks and the pool and the grills, I get to thinking about being American. To break with a fierce empire for a cheeky but noble vision was no small thing. Does America execute the founding ideals perfectly and consistently? Absolutely not. Freedom, for all, is not a task that gets done and checked off the list. The box has never been checked and it is a continual practice and effort. Multiple times in US history we’ve had wars and civil movements to expand and redefine who gets these self-evident and unalienable rights. For me, no area captures the roots of this better than a tour of Philadelphia and Gettysburg. The nation was born. And then defended and redefined. The story of US.

Some of our friends kicked Southwest refund miles they couldn’t use our way, and we rushed here. In 4 days (including flights) we saw everything we hoped to and more. This is your fast and full crash course on how to tour Philadelphia and Gettysburg (and all of the highlights in between!)

PHILADELPHIA

First, a caveat. Philadelphia is a large and tremendously engaging city with so much to do. So this, in its whirlwind tour, is by no means a complete breakdown. This IS how we spent about a day an a half in Philly and enjoyed the hell out of it.

Where to Stay

Stay close. Staying in the central Old City is supremely important to get the most out of your short time here. The Kimpton Hotel Monaco in Philadelphia is ideally located. Directly across the corner from Independence Hall, it is incredibly easy to walk to the top sites. We happened to find a last minute deal on this first Kimpton stay and geeked out over the stylish touches, the ship chandelier, and of course, the free wine tasting and happy hour on Friday evening. (You can also use Kimpton Karma and IHG rewards club- the Holiday Inn network of hotels- points for Kimpton properties.)

What to Do

This tour of Philadelphia and Gettysburg is all about the foundation of America. With a focus on Old City, here are the city’s highlights.

• Independence Hall– stand where the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution were both signed. By ticketed tour ONLY but tickets are FREE. You can get day-of tickets at the Visitor Center or reserve advance tickets for a specific day and time for just $1 a ticket.
• Liberty Bell- the original bell has its own home in an indoor center across the street from Independence Hall. Admission is FREE to the Liberty Bell Center and the lines get long- head out early or go near closing.
• Constitution Center- I was pretty hesitant about this one. How interesting can the Constitution be? Turns out, very interesting. The museum covers every facet of American culture from different perspectives and experiences, explaining why we are who we are as a country. The show at the end was a pleasant surprise. Also, the room of our founding fathers highlighted just how short everyone was. Except George of course.
• Elfreth’s Alley– let’s take a museum break. Elfreth’s Alley, a stroll east from the Constitution Center, is a picture-perfect street preserving colonial architecture. Declared “America’s oldest residential street”, here is your photo-op.
• Benjamin Franklin Museum– a large museum filled with interactive exhibits on the many sides and adventures of Franklin. If the school crowds and exhibits deter you, a quick stop at the first U.S. Post Office, Franklin’s brainchild, is worth a peek.
• Museum of the American Revolution- in case you’re not museumed out, this museum opened in 2017, has 118,000 square feet, and several life-size exhibits to experience moments in the war.

Where and What to Eat

If you come to Philadelphia and don’t try a cheesesteak … maybe just don’t mention that you went to Philadelphia at all. It’s a thing. There are a lot of strong feelings about how they should be made, what they include, and how to order them. There is a rivalry between two powerhouse and more famous cheesesteak vendors. I’m sure locals have the place that is “even better that tourists don’t mess up.” Whatever you pick, with a short time in Philly, you gotta try a cheesesteak.

Since you’re centrally located in Old Town, Sonny’s is a safe bet (and GQ’s restaurant critic’s #1 choice). It’s a narrow shop with a long but quick counter line and just a few tables. Freshly sliced rib eye, a selection of cheeses including the popular Cheese Whiz option, and of course the onions (answering the big “with or without” question in ordering.) Sonny’s has a lot of options but keep it simple and go cheesesteak. “One American with, please.” (the American cheese just melts so well.)

Where to Drink

We took a little drive to Philadelphia Distilling, the first post-Prohibition distillery in Pennsylvania. Not a gin fan, but with the name “Bluecoat”, I had to try it and it didn’t disappoint. Philadelphia has a Craft Distillery and Spirits Trail and I’m very curious about the crowd-funded Red Brick Distillery and their small-batch whiskeys.

PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH COUNTRY & VALLEY FORGE

Valley Forge

And we’re off, our tour leaving Philadelphia. In route to Gettysburg, there are several stops worth taking. One, for those really invested in their history tours, is Valley Forge National Historic Park. As a country we may have been young, scrappy, and hungry, but we were also losing. General George Washington pulled rag-tag militia troops together to winter here, a day’s ride from British-occupied Philadelphia in 77-78. They were cold, and literally hungry, and hadn’t been paid.

Through sheer force of personality, Washington not only kept the militias from going home for the winter and not coming back, but began to turn the forces into a trained army. When word of our fresh French alliance came in the Spring, the tide began to turn, and, for the first time, America was on the hunt. The park itself may lack overt diversions, but the story of what happened here is pivotal. We went from volunteers with guns from scattered colonies to a national army. Nations aren’t just created with pieces of paper; the people actually have to stand and then stay together as a united force. Or, United States.

Pennsylvania Dutch Country

The other interesting stop is the Pennsylvania Dutch Country where a large population of Amish lives. I feel ambivalent and self-conscious touring Amish areas. As a group of people, they prefer to live outside the modern world for complicated reasons I won’t attempt here. They don’t like having their pictures taken. Cultural curiosity and sensitivity begin to clash. AND, it is still quite interesting to drive through places like Intercourse and share the side roads with horse-drawn buggies.

We took Highway 340, the Old Philadelphia Pike. Whether you want to stop at the “Amish Experience”, tour farmhouses, take buggy rides, or simply do what we did and stop in for a hearty llunch, some jam, and shoo-fly pie, this road will get you whatever fix you need of Pennsylvania Dutch Country with willing participants in tourism. (Note: the Lancaster area has a lot to do; it can be a longer stop, especially if you’re a foodie.)

GETTYSBURG

The Gettysburg National Military Park is a 3-hour leisurely drive from Philly (less if you just get after it.) The park itself takes the better part of a day to absorb if you have the even slightest interest in the mark the battle left on the country. If you don’t, and are being drug here by someone else who does, you can still count on a half-day. We recommend leaving Philadelphia mid-day, or later in the afternoon if you don’t want to make long stops, and continuing on your tour and staying the night in Gettysburg. Then give the Gettysburg area and wherever you want to push on the full next day.

Where to Stay

There are two main types of lodging in Gettysburg- chain hotels and old bed and breakfasts. We went cheap hotel chain here, knowing we would be spending one short night in the area before moving on. If you want a bit more from your hotel and/or are staying in the area longer, the Gettysburg Hotel has my vote. It’s in downtown historic Gettysburg, dates from 1797 but has modern rooms, is right in the middle of the cutesy shopping and restaurant area, and has a roof-top pool.

What to do:

• Gettysburg National Military Park Museum: this is a HUGE museum and it makes you feel. If you try to drive around the park, reading the plaques and seeing the monuments, it doesn’t really do much. A field is a field. A bluff is a bluff. But when you know what happened there, and you have a sense of the heart-wrenching experiences captured in the museum, the field becomes Pickett’s Charge and the bluff becomes Little Round Top. Watch the movie Gettysburg, read Michael Shaara’s novels, or spend some time in the museum. Slightly interested, count on an hour. Very interested, give yourself three.
• Gettysburg Park and Monument Tour: the driving portion of the park is bigger than you think; there was fighting on a lot of fronts. I travel with a history major who has a particular thing for the Civil War- a built-in tour guide! If you’re not traveling with your own, the park sells audio tours and there are even physical guides that will ride around with you. Get something because the stories make it a powerful experience. Don’t miss Devil’s Den, Round Top, and both sides of the final charge.

Where to Eat and Drink

Downtown, historic Gettysburg. The Pub & Restaurant, or the “Old Pub”, has a varied menu in a classy setting; every room has a different and detailed style. You’ll be drawn to it even from outside, promise. Right next door is the Mount Hope Winery’s downtown store with tastings and treats. Walk just a bit over and you’re at the Gettysburg Bakery for fresh bread and pastries. Across the square is the Blue & Gray Bar and Grill, a no frills bar with Civil War décor, sports on TV, and a line out the door. Closer to the military park, the Appalachian Brewing Company of Gettysburg is part of a regional brewery and features not only craft beer and cocktails but also craft sodas.

HARPERS FERRY, ANTIETAM, AND BALTIMORE

This tour is about Philadelphia and Gettysburg but we flew into Baltimore for this trip because the price was right so we decided to close the loop and head back to Baltimore. Harper’s Ferry and Antietam are just an hour south of Gettysburg and it is a pretty drive through the area’s Appalachians.

Harpers Ferry

The Potomac and Shenandoah rivers cut through the mountains and meet right at Harpers Ferry. Consistent with the theme, this is where abolitionist John Brown (that wild-eyed Kansas boy) and his men tried to raid the federal army. They wanted to start an armed slave revolt to destroy slavery. He didn’t get far, but this is considered the “dress rehearsal” of the looming Civil War. Harpers Ferry has National Historic Park status and retains day-time charm and then flips to an eerie candlelit ghost town at night. The Appalachian Trail, running from Maine to Georgia, shares the bridge with the Amtrak and freight trains.

Antietam

For any Civil War buffs, this is a must-stop if you’re in the area. In the 12 hour savage battle 23,000 were killed, wounded or went missing, making Antietam the bloodiest day in American history. The Union win kept France and Britain, both wavering towards acknowledging the Confederate States as a country, out of the way. Antietam also marked the first time someone photographed and displayed the carnage of American battle. The romanticism of the war died, too. Antietam has a well laid out tour and a few powerfully moving spots as you envision being trapped facing waves of soldiers.

Baltimore in a Blink

Just over an hour back to Baltimore and with four hours before a flight, the best thing to do in Baltimore is eat some crab. For the high end, the Rusty Scrupper overlooks the harbor and offers delicious crab with a price-tag that stings. For more reasonable fare, Canton Dockside and Captain James Seafood Palace bring out the whole steamed crabs (and instructions for us newbies.) But we’re not done with our Philadelphia and Gettysburg tour theme yet! Fort McHenry guards Baltimore’s Inner Harbor and a brief tour will give you a sense of what Francis Key Scott was talking about when he wrote our national anthem, watching as our new nation defended itself successfully in the War of 1812.

May the road rise to meet you, travelers, and may a place’s history always inspire.

(For more travels that make history come alive, check out a trip through Bloody Florence’s history, the rebellious sites of Ireland’s independence, and follow me on Instagram. )

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