Venice is a dream for so many people. An aesthetic, a mood. We picture gentle gondola trips down murky canals, Byzantine palazzos looking on as we glide. We imagine wandering continual Old-World alleys, one of the places where East met West. What we don’t always picture is a tourist, wrestling luggage across bridges and staring across a canal to where they want to go with no easy crossing in sight. These practical tips will help you maneuver the reality of Venice so you can live the dream.
Tips for Getting There
Venice is an island. Actually a series of islands. With only a few ways to get there, crossing that water and seeing the city come in to focus is really a sight. You may find yourself leaning forward like the giddy child you once were, straining for the view and pushing your head to the glass. Just get off at the right spot!
- Venice vs. Mestre. The Mestre is the mainland. You don’t want to stay here (unless you know someone here.) Lodging is cheaper and it’s often advertised as Venice, but this is a long boat ride from what you are really wanting to see. You want Venice, Centro Storico, not Venice, Mestre.
- Venice by train. The train to Venice runs from multiple other cities in Italy (Rome is just 3.5 hours away). It crosses the canal bridge and kicks you out at a station that sits right on the edge of the Grand Canal. Literally you walk out of the station onto the Grand Canal. It’s magical. Make sure you get off at the Venezia Santa Lucia station and not the Venezia Mestre station.
- Venice by car. It’s less glamourous, but you can actually drive a car into one small area of Venice. You drive across the bridge, leave your vehicle at the car park on the edge of the island, and walk or take a ferry bus (vaporetto) to your Venetian destination.
- Venice by water taxi. The other possibility is to water taxi to the mainland. This is mostly used by people who fly into Venice’s airport (Marco Polo) and want to directly cross the lagoon versus arrange transport over the bridge. A hired boat ride will let you off nearer your destination, but this convenience definitely costs more.
Tips for Getting Around Venice
Venice is obviously not your ordinary city. If you arrive by train or vehicle, there are only a few ways to get to your lodging: water taxi (expensive), vaporetto, or walking. Keep these tips in mind to make your Venetian visit backache free!
- No cars. Everything that is a vehicle somewhere else is a boat in Venice. Ambulances, police boats, water taxis, water buses, even trash collectors. It adds to the surreal feel of Venice, and it also affects convenience. The odds are great that you will be walking at with your luggage so packing light here is a true triumph.
- Bridges and stairs. Venice has over 400 bridges. You will be crossing bridges and almost all of these have steps up and down. So again, remember this with your luggage and if you have any accessibility needs. Some hotels have boat drop off right into the building (on the Grand Canal or near the outer edges.) Wheels are tricky on Venetian bridges and an overstuffed suitcase is a foe. Consider a suitcase that transforms into a backpack.
- Vaporettos and traghettos. The ACTV vaporetto is basically a water bus. There are multiple routes around the island, many running at all hours, and handy passes are available. There is room for luggage for those just arrived on the train and the vaporettos are accessible. Grab a map of the ACTV system and ride the Grand Canal (the cheapest way to see it all!) A traghetto is a ferry that crosses the Grand Canal. These are cheap and very handy when the nearest bridge is a long hike.
- Getting Lost. Everyone says you will get lost in Venice. And everyone is right, no matter how good of a navigator you are. But it really is ok! It’s easier to let yourself go with the flow when you’re not hauling all your gear so it helps to have a sense of your directions to your lodging before you arrive. Other than that, just let it play out. I promise you will find some treasures.
Tips for Where to Stay
Venice has a ton of places to stay; it has to with 5 million guests staying overnight a year. And you will want to stay at least a night in Venice. It is the best way to get the sense of La Serenissima.
- Neighborhoods or sestieres. There are seven neighborhoods in the historical city of Venice, each with their own personality. Most people are familiar with San Marco where the most popular attractions are. This area, combined with the Grand Canal, is where most people stay. But liveable (and cheaper) Venice is found in other areas. Find your best fit.
- Venice is old. And it affects lodging. Sometimes we forget what historic accommodations mean in the modern world. Most lodging doesn’t have an elevator (yes, more stairs.) Most rooms were converted from traditional palazzos. Some rooms were once stunning parlors and apartments, some are in the rafters. Read room descriptions carefully. Like in many hotels outside of the US, a lot of hotels do not have A/C and instead have windows to be thrown open.
- Canal views. All canal views are not equal. Wide-open windows and balconies on the Grand Canal are several hundred dollars more a night. Many “canal views” along the Grand Canal that seem reasonably priced are really just a street view with a slice of water visible if you crane your neck. But there are many canals in Venice and affordable views are off the main stretch. Read the fine print AND the reviews if you really want to ensure that your “canal view” is worthy of the image in your head.
Tips for Saving Money
Venice sees 25 million or more tourists a year, 20 million who are day visitors. Prices in heavily touristed areas (ahem, San Marco) soar. But there are many ways to meaningfully see and stay in Venice and save yourself some cash.
- Sleep away from the Grand Canal
- Check the 2 for 1 deals from Trenitalia for your Venice route
- Buy the vaporetto pass if you’re hanging around for a few days and ride without hassle
- Eat and drink selectively in San Marco if at all; push out to the other sestieres
- Book a tour for the Doge’s Palace directly for maximum tour savings and the coolest themes. Book ahead of time to get what you want!
- Consider buying fresh produce and seafood and making a meal if staying with a kitchen
- Avoid “tours” to Venetian glass companies that some hotels push with clients. Several visitors report hard sells to buy something and some were not given a ride back to the main island without purchasing something. Take a vaporetto instead and tour them independently if you are interested.
May the road rise to me you, travelers, and may you press your nose to windows in wonder.
(Europe has a price tag but never fear! Need some help getting a good deal on airfare, earning and using points, finding upgrades, finding the right hotel or scoring good hotel deals in expensive places/events? Stick with us. We got this.)
