A love affair with Missouri wine country
Life is full of tasty choices. Shall we start low in the 167-year-old cellar, swilling bold, red wine and catching the blackberries dripping from chocolate strudel while stone angels smile down? Or perhaps we start high, popping chocolate covered cranberries between sweet sips and gazing down the wooded valley to the frosty Mighty Mo? You can’t go wrong on the Hermann Wine Trail.
Hugging the Missouri River, 90 minutes west of St. Louis, Hermann, Missouri hosts a melt-in-your-mouth wine trail every Valentine’s Day weekend and we were determined to be there. Not even six inches of snow could stop our Bacchanalian retreat.
Except, of course, it did. We avoided the 47-car-pileup on the interstate that hints of a Blues Brothers charade but involved a very real fatality. On our back-route highways we saw at least 40 long abandoned cars in ditches and overturned. A normally 90 minute drive took twice the time and we finally gave up to hunker down in Kingdom City. Snagging one of the last rooms in an hour radius, we let go of expectations and chatted with the south Louisianan trucker in the Motel 6 about crawfish and South Dakota.
The next morning clearer roads wound down to the river valley of Hermann and we walked right in to our suite at A Secret Vine. Three of the seven wineries that participate in Hermann’s wine trails are farther out of town and involve a hilly climb on gravel drives. Since the 479th winter event of the season was set to hit Saturday night, we took advantage of a sunnier day, hit the gas up those drives, and explored Robller down the road, Bias in the woods, and OakGlenn looking over the river. By the time we reached historic Hermannhof winery, it was time to ditch the car and catch the trolley.
Yet, Hermann isn’t just about the wine trail. This is still farming country with “union proud” signs outside nearby small-town homes. Hermann excels at the interesting blend between agricultural roots and tourist innovation. Fernweh Distillery‘s whiskey gets better with every visit and their dinner that night became my new favorite in town. UnColor Wine Bar & Gallery pairs creative design with decadent cupcakes. My beloved Black Walnut Bistro, home of the handmade pasta, is revamping into a shore-themed, alcoholic slushy-walled treat. You can’t walk down the red brick building streets without seeing a boutique, antique shop or bed and breakfast. What I admire most about Hermann is how all of these long-time farmers have shrewdly created a yuppie haven with the heart of their community still pumping underneath. And as a long-time yuppie with a strong dose of an Ozark heritage, I can’t help but love it all.
So to get a real sense of place I suggest you stop and talk to the people of Hermann. You might hear about the massive stolen train set, taken right out of the barn. You’ll see the same boisterous woman welcoming you at a minimum of four different places, making you feel as though you might be in some magical Hallmark movie. You can read the donate-it-forward coffee sleeve wall at Espresso Laine and see all the local hopes and prayers.
Go to the newer Loose Caboose Saloon and try to hustle with a local in pool while the wine trail crowd drunkenly yells karaoke. Or hit up the Concert Hall and Barrel Tavern, an old favorite (1878 kind of old.) Toby Keith sang about a bar with every type of person in it; I’m pretty sure it was about this oldest continually running tavern west of the Mississippi. Don’t you leave without doing a pickle shot. At either bar you will be double checking your tab because it’s so cheap you’re sure they missed half of it. Hermann is alive after five.
That Sunday morning I let a bitter wind on my face drive away the hangover reminding me I am no longer in my 20s. We visited the last of the Big 3 wineries: the oldest continuously run family winery in the country, Adam Puchta, and the lauded Stone Hill. (By the way, Stone Hill, you outdid yourself with that chocolate raspberry ganache, and that’s even with hungover taste buds.) Along with Hermannhof, all stood their consistency tests of excellency from their 1800s roots.
Wine is still a king business in Hermann, driving the crowds that patronize all the rest of the creative ventures. Four fall weekends see the masses for Oktoberfest and the 6 wine trails through the rest of the year bring out more as well. But you will find a crowd every weekend, especially if you are in search of bachelorette parties. Whenever you come, just remember to go beyond your wine glass. The heart of Hermann is more lastingly appealing and is headache-free.
May the road rise to meet you, travelers, and may your glass always be full.
Getting there: Hermann is 17 miles south of I-70, 90 min from St. Louis and 3 hours from Kansas city. An Amtrak station is conveniently located in the center of town, making it an easy walk to the trolley, shops, wineries, and accommodations. The train runs regularly between Kansas City and St. Louis.
Accommodations: Hermann has a plethora of bed & breakfasts, VRBO and Airbnb hosts, more limited hotel-type settings, and camping. While these travel tips can still help, most are off the standard booking sites . Start with Hermann’s official visitor services.
Hermann’s Wine Trails: Hermann hosts 6 yearly wine trails that pair themed dishes with each winery’s prime selection:
- Farmer’s Table- April- a single day pairing of locally-sourced dishes and pairings
- Wild Bacon- May- a weekend featuring the always delicious bacon as the star
- Berries & BarBQ- July- a smoky and sweet weekend in wine cellars and on patios
- Holiday Fare- November- two days of creative takes on seasonal favorites
- Say Cheese- December- classic and creative cheese in the Christmas spirit
- Chocolate- February- sweet cravings perfect for Valentine’s Day
Hermann Wine Country sounds like a place I would love to visit. Saving this post for when I go!
It is definitely a little hidden gem in that part of the world!
Unless you’re in the middle of Oregon, then no bueno
HA! Wasn’t that crazy! I was surprised people were so cheery in the reports I saw. I was in Santa Fe once during New Year’s and the line they got some much snow the rail closed. Would have hate to have been stuck in northeastern New Mexico. (also, love the name 😉 )
Nice entry! Think next time going by train during the snowstorm may have been quicker!
May have been- probably would have been. But after that Santa Fe trip over a decade ago…I don’t know! 🙂