There are a lot of adjectives that fit Glacier National Park. Epic. Beautiful. Wild. Jaw-dropping. Challenging. Rapturous. Majestic. None quite capture it. This is one of America’s most accessibly stunning parks. Whether you want to camp in the backcountry or stay in a lodge with the kids, Glacier has it. Now is the time; those glaciers are quantifiably shrinking and when they’re gone, so is the stunning color of the lakes and waterfalls that separates it from the rest. Decide what will make this your best trip and go now to see Glacier at its best.
(Heads up- there is a sponsored link at the end to the best trail guide I’ve ever found. You know the drill: at no extra cost to you a purchase from the link will provide me a small commission. I share it all the time regardless, would loan you my copy of I could, but transparency matters.)
Which part of the park is right for you ?
Going-to-the-Sun-Road
This is the main vein of the Glacier National Park, going from the West Glacier/Lake McDonald area to the St. Mary area. It is an iconic drive and you’ll be happy that traffic is slow to take in the vistas. The most scenic part is in the middle of the drive, but get ready to stop in the forests near Lake McDonald or the parking lots by St. Mary; both have some fun surprises.
Lake McDonald
The largest of the 250 lakes, this is a forested area on one side and a mountain wall on the other. There are many easy trails and it’s a popular area for day visits and families. There are high-end lodges, motels, campgrounds, restaurants, grocery stores, camp stores, a laundromat, a post office and a golf course.
Logan Pass
This is the highest point along the main road and has dramatic backdrops with names like the Garden Wall and the Hanging Gardens. Alpine fields attract varied wildlife. The hike from the parking lot to Hidden Lake has it all. But beware, weather here changes fast and the clouds bring a strong chill before spilling over the mountain walls.
St. Mary’s
The other bookend of the Going-to-the-Sun road, this is a great area to find a spot to park and wander. Accessible trails, vistas, and some of the bluest waterfalls you’ll ever see. A boat cruise is offered here. The amenities here equal to the Lake McDonald area and it is less busy.
Two Medicine and East Glacier
Down the road from St. Mary’s is the Two Medicine Lake area. There are multiple trails of varying lengths linking together that allow hikers to create their own adventure. This is the only major area of Glacier National Park that does not have a lodge, but just outside the boundary is the town of East Glacier with numerous offerings. A boat cruise also is offered here.
Many Glacier
As the name denotes, this area has the most visible glaciers as well as the most scenic boat cruise of the park. You can combine the two with a boat from the lodge and then a climb up to Grinnell Glacier (trail permitting.) This area, along with Logan Pass, is also popular with the bears. You can stay at the historic lodge (lead picture), motels, and campgrounds and take advantage of grocery stores, a café, and an Italian restaurant. (my personal fav).
More Remote Areas
Polebridge in the northwest, Goat Haunt in the northeast, and Walton in the southwest are more removed than the other areas and are a haven for campers and hikers who want to get further away from the crowds on the road and prefer to be the only ones they see on the trails.
Park safety tips
Safety, with wildlife and water (strangely, water is the number one cause of death in Glacier) is critical. You will see many exciting animals and be tempted to push boundaries to get closer or see the next thing around the restricted area. It’s human and unfortunately for some it ends up being deadly. There are entire sections of the park newsletter and website on safety and they really are worth a read.
- Don’t approach wild animals. It seems obvious now, but people get excited and do some crazy stuff for the photo.
- (Mountain) Lions and Bears (Oh My!)– 300 ft. Minimum. Don’t stop by bears on the road. Secure your food (there are some SERIOUS locking mechanisms on park trash cans.) Hike in groups; there are no reported attacks on groups of 4 or more. Make noise. Not just bells, but call out, clap. Hubs sang Queen’s greatest hits before moving into Bone Thugz N Harmony. Don’t go for a run on the trails and risk startling a bear. If a sign says the trail is closed due to high bear activity, turn around. If you see them, try to get away slowly and quietly. Read the other helpful guides. Then have fun.
- Killer water– this is glacial water. It is cold enough to rapidly drop the body’s core temperature. Slipping into rivers, lakes, and rapids and experiencing hypothermia is a real threat. Use caution around any of that beautiful blue water.
- Pack for cold weather– even in August, it’s cold at night! This also sounds obvious, but Hubs managed to roll into GNP without a single long-sleeve because “it was summer.”
Tips on the Glacier crowds
- Bring your passport and drive north– When Glacier is packed, remember the further north you go, the less busy the park gets. Then, just north of the border is a sibling to the US’s Glacier National Park: Canada’s Waterton Lakes National Park. It’s all the same beautiful area. There is just a national border dividing it. (Side note- Canada is so close that the clearest radio station was definitely from the Great North.) So bring your passport in case you feel inclined to leave it all behind.
- Know what to expect– You need to be up and moving early to get parking spots in any main areas. The backcountry permit office (you need a permit if you’re going camping out of the main areas) has a long line by 7am. Popular parking lot areas (looking at you Logan Pass!) are filling by 8am. Either get on the move early or plan for delays and traffic. If a trail is easy to reach by car and is fairly gentle, it will be crowded. BUT, it is really ok. One, it’s nice to have other people around when you see those watch out for bear signs. Two, you are surrounded by a massive, wild space and when you get out of the parking lot you still feel small. And three, Glacier is beautiful, everywhere. If you see a less busy parking spot, just park and catch a shuttle or take a walk. You never know what you’ll find and led to some of our favorite finds!
Getting there:
- Drive– Glacier NP is up in Montana’s Big Sky country and is in the heart of the Rockies. Whether it’s a long road trip or a short drive from the train station or airport, it will be scenic.
- Fly- the nearest airport to Glacier is in Kalispell, a 30 mile or 45 min drive. It’s a small airport, served by Delta, United, American, and Alaska Airlines. Plan ahead for cheap or free flights and count on a connection. There is a fare-free bus from Kalispell to the park daily in the summer season.
- Train– Amtrak’s Empire Builder runs daily between Chicago and Seattle. There are three station stops that border the park (East GNP, Essex, and West GNP.) If you are riding westbound, these stops are scheduled for the early evening. Eastbound has these stops scheduled in the morning. Please remember, particularly if you haven’t traveled on a long-haul Amtrak train over mountains, that these routes often run LATE. We were supposed to arrive at East GNP at 6:45pm and pulled in almost 6 hours later. I don’t want to discourage you; this is one of Amtrak’s most beautiful routes and you are in the quality double decker cars of Amtrak’s western lines. It is an experience! Just plan accordingly and consider an overnight in East GNP. The locals were completely prepared for late trains, which tells you the norms. (Again, I don’t want to discourage you, I love train travel, including Amtrak, and will have more posts soon about this journey and other tips.)
Getting around
- Shuttle: Going-to-the-Sun shuttle service is a popular way to get around if you are car-free or don’t want to mess with parking. This is a free, hop-on/hop-off service running both directions on the primary road (Going-to-the-Sun). Seating is limited and sometimes they get busy so prepare to wait or walk. There is also a hiker shuttle that connects different areas of the park. This is handy for those doing back country camping, taking supplies, and starting in one area and ending in another. There is a fee and it requires reservations. You also get to ride in old-school red “buses.” (This service can also provide other shuttles and tours for a fee if you want to skip the free park ones and have a guaranteed ride.)
- A word about the roads– depending on where you are planning to go, remember that this is mountainous country and some of the roads outside of the main areas are rough. The main road, Going-to-the-Sun, is typically only open all the way through for a month or less a year. Mid-July to early August is the prime time for this and if you want to traverse the whole park, this is the timeframe you need to plan.
Last but not least, this is the ultimate guide to the trails of the park and essential for planning a great hike. This is the most loaned book in my travel library. It has everything you need to know.
May the road rise up to meet you, travelers, and may your adventures be on top of the world.
